ROSEMONT, Ill. (Oct. 29, 2024) — With the growing popularity of beauty influencers and viral skin care routines, social media is playing an integral role in shaping how people care for their skin. Popular trends like the glass-skin look, the Russian manicure, and at-home red light therapy have sparked widespread attention, but how safe and effective are they? Ahead of National Healthy Skin Month in November, board-certified dermatologists offer insights into the effectiveness, safety, and long-term impact of these skin care practices.
“Social media has definitely made people more aware of the importance of skin care and maintaining healthy skin,” said Samantha Karlin, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Covington, LA. “What’s important to remember is that not every trend is suitable for every skin type, and some might even be harmful and cause damage."
Russian Manicures
A trend that’s becoming increasingly popular on TikTok but can prove problematic is the Russian manicure, according to Dr. Karlin.
Also known as a dry or waterless manicure, the Russian manicure skips the usual nail soaking step, said Dr. Karlin. Instead, an electric file is used right away to clean, shape, and work on the nail and cuticle. The idea is to remove skin surrounding the nail and the cuticle to make your nails look long, and to place polish under the cuticle to make the manicure last longer.
“I caution my patients against this type of nail care technique, because the cuticle acts as a protective barrier, and it’s not designed to be breached,” Dr. Karlin said. “Removing the cuticle puts you at risk for infection from bacteria and fungus. In particular, after Russian manicures we tend to see patients with paronychia, a type of infection that causes the skin around your nail to become inflamed, painful, and discolored.”
Glass Skin
Glass skin, which originated in Korea, is a skin-care trend that keeps the skin looking smooth, clear, and with the appearance of being pore-less, said Dr. Karlin. The trick is to keep the skin as moisturized as possible to increase skin cell turnover and optimize the hydration of the skin to minimize the appearance of lines.
The steps to achieving this look include using a gentle cleanser, a hydrating serum, a moisturizer, and exfoliating, all while making sure to protect your skin using sunscreen.
“Certain aspects of the glass skin trend like moisturizing your skin and using a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher are positive steps toward better skin care habits,” said Dr. Karlin. “But the glass-skin look might not be realistic for everyone, and some people may run the risk of using too many products, which can lead to issues like clogged pores, irritation, and breakouts. That’s why it’s important to think about everything in moderation as you’re customizing your skin care routine, and remember that as dermatologists, we can help recommend a skin care routine that works best for your skin type.”
Red Light Therapy
Red light therapy uses red or near-infrared light to treat skin concerns like wrinkles, age spots, and sagging skin, as well as conditions like hair loss and acne, said Amit Om, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in Charlotte, North Carolina. At-home red-light devices are becoming more and more popular with social media influencers, as people turn to masks, panels and wands to treat their skin issues. Unlike ultraviolet (UV) light, which can cause skin cancer, research hasn’t found that red light can cause cancer.
“Dermatologists often recommend red-light therapy alongside treatments like medicated creams, microneedling, or chemical peels to treat signs of aging,” said Dr. Om. “To help you maintain results after an in-office treatment, your dermatologist may recommend using an at-home device.”
While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has cleared several of these devices to treat signs of skin aging at home — which means they meet certain safety and effectiveness standards and can be legally marketed in the U.S. — more research is needed to determine exactly how effective they are, said Dr. Om.
“Some studies have shown that with repeated treatments, it’s possible for red light to regrow hair over time, but it’s important to note that there are many causes of hair loss, and for some of these causes, we still don’t know if red light can successfully reverse hair loss,” said Dr. Om.
Side effects, if any, are generally mild, he said, noting that some people experience slight pain or irritated skin after treatment. Many at-home devices have the words “FDA-cleared” on the packaging, which means the FDA considers these devices to have a low risk of adverse effects.
“If you’re considering using a red-light device at home, I recommend first consulting with a board-certified dermatologist, who can talk to you about your overall health and what results you’re hoping to achieve,” said Dr. Om. “We can determine what type of treatment works best for your skin concern and your skin type.”
Ultimately, it’s safer to consult a board-certified dermatologist instead of experimenting with skin care trends that may pose risks, said Dr. Om.
“While some of these trends may seem harmless or even beneficial, they often don’t have any real science behind them and could end up causing skin damage or other health issues,” he said. “A board-certified dermatologist can provide you with safe, personalized advice to help you care for your skin without taking unnecessary risks.”
To find a board-certified dermatologist in your area, visit aad.org/findaderm.
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About the AAD
Headquartered in Rosemont, Ill., the American Academy of Dermatology, founded in 1938, is the largest, most influential and most representative of all dermatologic associations. With a membership of more than 21,000 physicians worldwide, the AAD is committed to advancing the diagnosis and medical, surgical, and cosmetic treatment of the skin, hair, and nails; advocating high standards in clinical practice, education and research in dermatology; and supporting and enhancing patient care because skin, hair, and nail conditions can have a serious impact on your health and well-being. For more information, contact the AAD at (888) 462-DERM (3376) or aad.org. Follow @AADskin on Facebook, TikTok, Pinterest and YouTube and @AADskin1 on Instagram.
Editor’s note: The AAD does not promote or endorse any products or services. This content is intended as editorial content and should not be embedded with any paid, sponsored or advertorial content as it could be perceived as an AAD endorsement.
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